August 11, 2022
“Bloody marys are divisive, I get it. Not everyone likes tomato juice. Not everyone who likes tomato juice thinks it should be boozified. Not everyone wants to mix salad fixins with vodka. As for me, I think the world’s most famous hangover analgesic should be an all-the-time drink instead of being confined to post-bender brunches. There are plenty of joints offering extravagant interpretations of Fernand Petiot’s most famous creation (at Party Fowl, they stick, among other things, two Cornish game hens on skewers as garnish), but Sunda’s interpretation, served in a 32-ounce Mason jar, hits the right mix of delectable and absurd. It starts with Sunda’s standard Asian-inspired bloody mary mix, then adds a fusion-tastic dim sum platter: grilled cheese with tocino (Filipino sweet marinated pork belly), longanisa (a Filipino sausage), a pork belly bao bun, a snow crab handroll, Japanese-style fried chicken, lumpia egg rolls, the restaurant’s signature potatoes and, because I guess they needed a vegetable, cucumber. If, like me, solving the hangover isn’t worth the shellfish-caused anaphylaxis, the crustacean parts of the cocktail can be omitted or served on the side for your dining partner. Sure, it’s $38, but it’s a meal (and a complete restorative) in a glass. J.R. LIND”
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