When Billy Dec opened Sunda New Asian in the Gulch in 2018, he was inspired by his Filipino roots. “I think Filipino food is one of the most underestimated culinary genres around,” he says. “It’s incredibly diverse, uniquely flavorful, and always evolving. With a colorful history of colonization, trade, travel, welcoming of other cultures, ingredients, and cooking styles, it has made it very hard over time to pinpoint exactly what Filipino food’s limits have been. I think is a super strength, making it the genre to explore.” And what better time to explore the cuisine than October—Filipino American History Month? Try cooking a beloved Filipino dish at home, namely Dec’s Chicken Inasal. “I really love [this dish],” he says. “The marinade is extremely bright, aromatic, citrusy, and full of umami, which is an awesomely powerful combination. One of my favorite parts of Sunda’s Chicken Inasal is when making it on the grill at home, the unique hints of lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and achiote all play together. From the aroma when it hits the grill or sauté pan to putting
it on a salad, brown rice, grilled veggies, or just enjoying it on its own, I love it!” It’s one of many dishes on Sunda’s menu—which also includes elevated cuisine from Japan, China, and other countries throughout Southeast Asia— that pays tribute to Dec’s family heritage. “My Lola (grandma in Tagalog, the native language of my family in the Islands of the Philippines), was one of the most amazing cooks. I still hear people rave about her, and her higher level of care, heart, love, and welcomeness in the way she lived, which influenced my path in hospitality—including the creation and growth of Sunda, which we are expanding into other cities like Tampa and Chicago,” he says. “I watched her prep and cook every single day as she helped raise me and my siblings, taking so much care in sharing the process, flavors, and tradition. I only wish she was still with us to try the handful of Filipino favorites she fed us growing up, I know she would be proud. I miss her a lot.” (Sunda New Asian, 592 12th Ave. S., 615-610-7566; sundanewasian.com) —Alison Abbey Hudak
